Residential · Timber sleeper

Timber Sleeper Walls

Timber sleeper is the honest budget option for a lower garden terrace, and it lives or dies on what is under it and behind it. We post treated pine or hardwood sleepers into concrete to the right depth for the soil, drain the wall properly, and tell you straight when the height climbs past what timber should hold. A timber wall that leans or rots early is a footing and drainage problem, not a timber problem, so that is exactly where we build it to last.

Photo: timber sleeper walls job
Scope

What this job includes.

  • Treated-pine and hardwood sleeper walls for garden terraces
  • Posts set in concrete to the right depth for clay or fill
  • Ag-pipe, aggregate and geofabric drained behind every wall
  • Honest advice when the height needs concrete sleeper or besser instead
  • Stepped down the fall and finished to the garden
Our system: Treated-pine or hardwood sleepers on concrete-set posts, with the timber type and the footing depth named on the quote, drained behind, and the structure warranted for 10 years.
How we quote it

Priced by the face-metre, itemised line by line.

The face-metres and height, the material and the footing named, the drainage as its own line, the engineering and council line if it is over a metre, excavation and access, and the boundary note if the wall holds up a neighbour. Not one round number for a wall.

The 7-line quote
  1. 1 Face-metres, height and material. The price broken down by face-metres and the wall height, with the material named: concrete sleeper, core-filled besser, timber, link-block or stone. Not one round number for "a retaining wall".
  2. 2 The footing and reinforcement. The footing sized to the wall and the soil: a reinforced concrete footing for besser, concrete-set posts dug to depth for sleeper walls, with the reinforcement named. This is the line cowboys skip.
  3. 3 The drainage, as its own line. The ag-pipe (subsoil drain) along the base, the free-draining aggregate backfill, the weep holes and the geofabric. Trapped water is the number one reason walls fail, so the drainage is on the quote, not left off.
  4. 4 The engineering and council line. If the wall retains over a metre, the structural engineer design and certification and the council development approval, itemised, with a realistic approval timeline, not folded into a round number.
  5. 5 Excavation and access. The cut, the machine access on a steep or tight block, the spoil carted away and the tip fees, each a line, never sprung on you at the end.
  6. 6 The boundary-cost note. If the wall holds up a neighbour boundary, a plain-English note on how the cost usually falls (the benefit / whose-land-is-retained rule), so you can have the conversation. General guidance, not legal advice.
  7. 7 Warranty and compliance. The 10-year structural workmanship and drainage warranty in writing, and the AS 4678 / NCC compliance with the engineer design where the height needs it.
If a quote doesn’t show these lines, you can’t compare it, and you don’t know what’s been cut.
How it runs

What happens, step by step.

1

Free site assessment and soil

We come to the block, measure the fall and the slope, check the soil and the access, and talk through material and height, then put a written quote in your hands.

2

Engineer design where the height needs it

For a wall over a metre or under a surcharge, the structural engineer designs it to AS 4678 and we lodge the council development application, so it is signed off before we dig.

3

Itemised quote and start date

The honest quote: face-metres, height and material, the footing, the drainage, the engineering line, excavation and the boundary-cost note. You sign off and we book the dig.

4

Footings and posts

We excavate, then size and set the footings: a reinforced concrete footing for besser, concrete-set posts dug to depth for sleeper walls. The footings cure before the wall goes up.

5

Drainage and wall build

The ag-pipe and free-draining aggregate go in behind the wall as it is built, with weep holes and geofabric, so water drains away instead of building up. Then the wall is built to height.

6

Backfill, finish and handover

We backfill and finish, clear the site, walk you around the wall, and hand over the warranty in writing and the engineer certification and approval paperwork where it applies.

Insured, covered, guaranteed

The paperwork behind the price.

Public liability to $20M, and a 10-year structural warranty, all in writing, all on request.

We hold a South Australian builder’s licence, we build every wall to AS 4678 and the NCC, and we carry public liability insurance, so you are covered on site. For a wall over a metre, or one holding up a driveway or a building, we bring the structural engineer’s design and certification and handle the council development approval. The guarantee is a 10-year structural warranty, in writing, covering the structural workmanship and the drainage, the parts that fail first. All in writing, with exclusions named.

The cover, the guarantee, and how to check each one.
Questions, answered

Timber Sleeper Walls: common questions.

How long does a treated-pine sleeper wall last?
A well-built treated-pine wall with concrete-set posts and proper drainage typically lasts 15 to 20 years before the timber needs attention, longer for hardwood sleepers. The timber weathers first; the posts, footings and drainage are what decide whether it stays standing. We will be straight with you about which timber suits your budget and your height.
Is timber strong enough for my wall?
For lower garden terraces, generally yes. Timber sleepers suit walls up to around a metre, posted into concrete to depth. Once the height climbs or there is a load above, concrete sleepers or besser are the safer call, and we will say so rather than build a timber wall taller than it should go.
Can you do timber over a metre?
Sometimes, with an engineered design, heavier posts and closer spacing, and council approval. But past a metre, concrete sleepers often cost about the same and last longer, so we will usually steer you there and explain why. Tell us the height on the estimator and we will lay out the options.
Does a timber wall still need drainage?
Yes. Timber is the most likely of all the materials to rot if water sits against it, so the ag-pipe, the aggregate and the geofabric matter even more here. We never build a timber wall without them.
Get started

Get a free, itemised quote you can actually read.

Tell us what you need. We’ll book a walkthrough and send a quote with the work itemised, not just a number.

✓ SA Builder Licensed✓ Engineered to AS 4678✓ Licensed & insured✓ 140 five-star reviews✓ 10-year structural warranty
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